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Whenever compiling a list of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee familiar award-winning establishments. Yet, tucked near the top among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu located in a outlying corner of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

The small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. This accolade has left the proprietors completely surprised.

“I’m totally astonished,” remarks a family member, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their modest restaurant earning such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its former feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the food, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender texture.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at many times that price.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s success is likely to echo beyond its own premises. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this culinary triumph.